Wednesday 23 March 2016

Demoing at YCS Grand Final 2016

On Saturday 23 April 2016 we were in Edinburgh, Scotland for the grand final of the Youth Climbing Series 2016. After breakfast at McDonalds we went to EICA Ratho to register my brother for the comp. I wasn't competing as I am on the GB climbing team, I was demoing instead.

I was demoing for girls D and I had to do 6 demos all together. My first one was at 10:00 girls D route 1. When I started I tried to climb it well and I was concentrating to hard because I slipped off half way up! I got back on quickly and finished the route. It was quite embarrassing considering it was the first route as well.

Shortly after this I had to do the same demo again for the other half of girls D. This time I just climbed normally and topped it easily!

By this time my brother (Oscar) had flashed all his boulders and his first route.

I had lunch after watching him. There was a long wait before I had to do anymore demoing.

Eventually I demoed the 2nd route. I wasn't nervous and found it very fun to climb. I hope it looked ok. It was the blue route by the Sardinian Piller. The crux was towards the top because it had some bad slopers and lots of the B girls came off it.

Next I got on the yellow (girls D route 3), it had a very sketchy finish and I was worried I might fall off again. I had practiced this route the day before so I knew what to do, I just didn't like it! I found the start fine and I enjoyed it. At the slopers section I went slow and managed to top it. I don’t think I made it look very easy though.

I had another long break next so I played football outside with my brothers and some other kids. Which was fun because I didn't have to worry about route reading or doing well because I wasn't competing. Although I would have much preferred to competing. Sometimes I quite like the pressure because it makes me climb better and I can climb harder grades.

Just as Oscar was getting on his 3rd route I had to go and do a demo but it was directly opposite his climb so I watch him while tying in. He held the top with one hand and then swung off! But still currently second. I did the demo of the yellow again. This time I wasn't as worried. I went up quite quickly because the other half of group D were waiting for me to demo the blue again for them. I topped the yellow and ran over to the other side of the arena and got on the blue route again. It was much easier this time and I felt a lot more confident. My friend Gwen was climbing next so I stayed and watched her. She topped it and looked very confident.

This ended my day of demoing so I went to cheer my brother on his last climb. If he topped it he would be joint first. He got to a reachy move and slipped off it. This ended his competition and put him back five places into 6th. He was very disappointed.

We stayed to watch the presentations and then went back to the hotel to eat as it was quite late.
Overall I enjoyed demoing and I now know how boring it can get for parents. I definitely prefer competing!

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