Sunday 1 June 2014

One of my best climbs

The new pink one
Today I went to Boulders in the morning to have a session to do some falling practice. This is to make sure I am ready for the colour climbing festival competition I am going to in Austria. I did the orange 6b on the roof to make sure I was fully warm. I needed to be well warmed up today because I really wanted to flash this ungraded pink route next to the roof. Once I had read this route carefully I attempted it.

The first moves up until the sloper were fine. But the sloper was awful so I had to move off it quickly. The next move I held and I clipped the third quick draw. From the ground the next move didn't look as reachy as it actually was. It was massive, I moved my feet in all different ways and tried my best to reach it but it was no use. So I jumped for it. I wasn't expecting to hold it but I managed to.

My arms were getting pumped so with out any thought I clipped. I had made a prediction at the start saying if I can get to the fourth clip I could finish it. I was determined to do it so I pushed on.

The next moves to clip number 5 were hard with pumped arms but I was only one clip away from the top. I had to do it. I shook my hands to de-pump my arms a little as the hold I was holding was good. The next hold was ok, and good enough to clip from. I managed the clip and quickly and grab the mini jug/crimp with one hand and the long sloper with the other. I tried to push over and grab it but it was to far and there was no foot holds on my right hand side to stand on. So I put my foot on the other wall and bridged between the foot hold and the wall. I couldn't quite reach the hold so I pull up the rope and clipped the top first which I was only just tall enough to do. I was at my full stretch.

When I came down I was so pleased. My Dad was pleased as well. After a long rest I decided to do the purple 7a on the roof. I try this every session because I always get to the second from the top hold and I really wanted to complete it. I saved my energy all the way up the wall until the final move. I tried rocking up but I couldn't because my hand hold was a under cut so I jumped and only just missed it. It was a bit disappointing but I was happy that I gave it my best shot.

I had another break before trying an orange route that started on a flat wall, and then went on to two hanging volumes that hung from a steel beam at the top of Boulders. The climb finishes with one hold on the slightly overhanging wall opposite the vert wall. I tried this climb and managed to get all the way to second from top with out any problems. Once I clipped the last overhanging clip I did a powerful move to the final hold and missed it but didn't fall off. The same happened the next time and the next. I was really tired by this time and thought I was going to fall off but I gave it one last go, which was definitely worth it because I got it! I was really happy with that. I decided to swing rather than clipping the top for fun!

I thought today was one of my best sessions I tried 3 climbs that were hard and I managed 2.


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